Allow me to preface by stating that I designed this crochet market bag pattern 6 years ago and I’m still using my bags quite often. We have a plastic ban bag in Austin and it is strongly encouraged that we carry our own market bags by getting a little discount at the register or purchase bags. I’ve absolutely loved these bags so very much.
Market Bag Free Crochet Pattern
They’ve been to farmer’s markets, the beach, playgrounds and held everything from cans and juice containers to sand toys or snacks. Honestly, I can’t tell you how many times I have taken all three to the post office full of packages.
This bag does not work up quickly and it is not a quick fix. A friend of mine kicked hers out in one day, but this is a project that you will be extremely glad you invested the time to make. It is worth every single stitch. (Technically, it isn’t demanding, but working with 2 strands of cotton requires some patience as it can be hard on the hands and wrists. Take your time. It’s worth it. I have osteoarthritis and can only work on it for 15 minutes at a time.)
Worked with 2-strands together, this crochet pattern makes a strong Beach Bag or Market Bag that is extremely versatile with integrated straps that will be contoured to your shoulder and don’t dig in. It can hold 9 skeins of yarn with a couple of notebooks and my wallet. A soccer ball also fits in there nicely with a towel and water bottle.
The construction is intended to have a solid bottom so small items such as markers or highlighters stay in the bottom without falling out. (Of course, if you tip the bag…. I don’t have to tell you stuff will slide out the sides.)
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10 oz Sugar n Cream Cotton or other worsted weight cotton
K (6.5mm) hook
Sizes are approximate
Length including straps: 24″
Width laying flat: 15″
Gauge: Not crucial for this project
Stitch Guide in American Terms
sl st- slip stitch
sc- single crochet
hdc- half double crochet
dc- double crochet
inc- increase (2 of the stitch worked into the same stitch)
dec- decrease (see Special Stitches)
dec – Insert hook into st and draw up a loop. Insert hook into next st and draw up a loop. Yarn over, draw through all 3 loops on hook (also known as “sc2tog”)
Beginning chain counts as the first stitch in the round throughout this pattern. You will work 2 strands together. Do not turn your
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R1: working with 2 strands together, ch4, join into a loop. Sc9, do not join — 9sts
R2: ch3, dc in next st, dc inc around, sl st into top of ch — 18ts
R3: ch3, dc inc, *dc, dc inc. Repeat from * around, sl st into top of chain — 27sts
R4: ch4, *dc, ch1. Repeat from * around, sl st into 3rd ch of starting ch — 27sts
R5: ch2, hdc in 1st st, hdc inc around, sl st into top of chain — 54sts
R6: ch3, sk1, *hdc, ch1, sk1* Repeat from * around, sl st into 2nd ch of starting ch — 27sts, 27 ch-1 spaces
R7-8: sc, ch2, *hdc in ch1 space, ch2. Repeat from * around, sl st into 2nd ch of starting ch — 27sts, 27 ch-2 spaces
R9: sc, *ch3, sc in ch2 sp. Repeat from * around, ending with ch3, sc around beginning ch3 — 27sts, 27 ch-2 spaces
Continue by working in a spiral (do not join). Be sure to use your stitch marker.
R10-16: *ch3, sc into ch space. Repeat from * around, ending with ch3, sc around beginning ch3 — 27sts, 27 ch-3 spaces
R17-18: *ch5, sc. Repeat from * around. –27sts, 27 ch-5 spaces
R19: *ch2, dc into ch space. Repeat from * around -27sts, 27 ch-2 spaces
R20: hdc3 in ea space around — 81sts
R21: hdc around — 81sts
Sometimes I add an extra row of hdc around.
R22: ch43, sk20, hdc20, ch43, sk20, hdc21 (40sts)
R23: hdc43 into chain, hdc20, hdc43 into chain, hdc21 (127sts)
R24: *hdc19, hdc dec, hdc, hdc dec, hdc39*, sc in last (work * to * twice- 127sts)
These decreases may seem excessive but will stretch out with use.
R25: *hdc18, 2 hdc dec, hdc39* sc in last (work * to * twice- 123sts)
To end: sc, sk1, sl st and fasten